Europeans have already discovered the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. But it’s still relatively unknown to Americans.
The island of Hvar is a better kept secret than the more popular destinations of Dubrovnik and Split. But with spectacular natural beauty, fascinating history, and the sunniest weather in the Adriatic, Hvar is a clear winner.
Hvar hotels cost of fraction of what similar properties in Italy and France cost. And since the island is accessible only by ferry – it’s too small to accommodate the big cruise ships that call at ports in the Riviera – it’s never thronged with tourists.
The Yugoslavian fishing village of the 1970s has been transformed into a playground for the European jet set, although there are still plenty of places where you can just relax and enjoy the gorgeous coastline.
Waves of foreign rule, ancient and modern, have all left mark.
In addition to Yugoslavia, Hvar has, at one time or other, been ruled by the Greeks, the Romans, the Venetians, and the Hapsburgs. History buffs will enjoy exploring what remains of those cultures today.
Today, the island is reached by ferries from Ancona and Pescara in Italy, and the Croatian ports of Split and Dubrovnik. It packs a lot into its 50-mile length, including lavender fields, vineyards producing both red and white wines, and great hikes. One of the best takes you to the top of the island fortress. There are beautiful views of the Adriatic and the neighboring islands from the top.
Hvar also boast the biggest piazza in Croatia. In fact, only Piazza San Marco in Venice is larger. The piazza, and much of the town that surrounds it, dates from the 16th century. Hvar town is the heart of the island, and it’s also where the passenger ferries dock.
The island’s other port, Stari Grad, is where the car ferries arrive and depart. But because so much of Hvar town is pedestrianized and closed to car traffic, a car is more of a liability than an asset. There are several places where you can rent motor bikes, and they’re the most convenient way to get around.
Hvar hotel basics.
Hvar’s appeal to foreign travelers is relatively recent, so most Hvar hotels have been renovated in the last few years. As a result, you’ll find wireless Internet access, flat-screen TVs, and other up-to-date amenities in most of the better properties. Prices in Hvar are higher than in other Croatian cities, but so are standards.
If you enjoy nightlife. Hvar has some of the best on the Adriatic. During the season, the water-front bars and clubs are packed all night long. If dancing the night away is on your agenda, Hvar hotels near the harbor are your best bet. If a good night sleep is more important to you, choose one of the hotels south of town.
These are the most appealing hotels in Hvar:
The only member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World group in Croatia, the Adriana is probably the most expensive hotel in Hvar. The location, right on the harbor, is hard to beat. And the rooftop terrace features a heated pool, and a sky bar that overlooks the harbor and the islands. The 15,000-square-foot spa offers every treatment you can imagine, and there are cabanas outdoors for massages. Adriana guests who want some time at the beach have privileges at the Bonj les Bain beach club on Amfora Bay. Both are managed by Suncani Hvar. Private cabana and pontoon rentals are available at the 1930s pavilion.
The second best Hvar hotel for those who want to be in the heart of the action is the Riva Yacht Harbor. A member of Small Luxury Hotels, it’s also on Hvar’s bustling waterfront. Housed in a 100-year-old building, the Riva was the place to stay when it opened in 2006. Some newer properties have provided stiff competition. But the Riva still has a lot going for it. At sunset, there’s no better place than the open air terrace overlooking the marina. The chic, modern rooms are well thought out, and the restaurant is good for fresh seafood and Mediterranean food. There’s no swimming pool, but it’s not far from a pebbly beach.
With only 15 rooms, the Hotel Park Hvar is hard to get into during peak times. The location — in a 16th-century palace just off the main square – is one of the best in town. And it’s walking distance to virtually everything in Hvar. Some of the rooms have balconies with ocean views, and others have living rooms and separate bedrooms. The property is flanked by a pretty garden and a quiet courtyard, so despite the central location, it’s relatively quiet.
Overlooking a small cove and a tropical garden, the Hotel Podstine is reached by a 20-minute stroll along a coastal pathway. You won’t have to walk with your bags, though. They’ll send the shuttle to meet your ferry. The Podstine really takes advantage of Hvar’s wonderful weather. Palms and citrus trees surround the spa, and the restaurant and terrace café have lovely views of the bay. Second and third-floor rooms have balconies with deck chairs, umbrellas, and ocean views. There’s also a beach.
Those who want to stay on the beach but still be part of the action will enjoy Amfora. The key design element here is the large, heated pool with cascades, a swim-up bar, and pavilions where you can have drinks or dinner. The Bonj les Bains beach club is a 2-minute walk and DJs spin the latest hits around the pool at late-afternoon Apres Beach parties. Active travelers will appreciate the rock-climbing wall by the pool. There’s a good, outdoor restaurant, and if you want more choices, Hvar town is about a 15-minute walk.
Families or friends traveling together can rent a villa overlooking Podstine Bay and have it all to themselves. If you rent all of Villa Rosmarinus, it sleeps 12. Or, if there are only six of you, you can rent just the second and third floors. The villa is set in a pine forest and there are several terraces with sea views. Another bonus is the private parking.
For decades, the Hvar Palace was the most prestigious hotel in Hvar. These days, it’s seen brighter days, although the Venetian Palace right on the main square is a great place to come for a drink. It offers some of the best people watching in town.
Another good source for information on Hvar hotels. This is a good resource for other travel tips.
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